16ft Boesch Design Restoration

[viteau]

You are doing a great job on your boat and it is critical that your trailer is 100%. The trailer that came with my boat was made with a pipe chassis and it had the draw bar changed to RHS after it came of a car and went bush. I got Easytow to make the trailer and it may not be period but they did a great job for around $4500. Cheers Chris

[screwit]

One more thing I forgot was a tandem axle is harder to lift to drain water out
Important for a wooden boat to drain out the water/
Ross

[Darren]

Ross,
Not important for us clinker guys to elevate trailer.
The boats don't hold water!

[Damo]

Thanks Guys for the feedback on the trailer, considering all views I am now going to build a complete new trailer out of pipe to the design of the original although incorperating more strength over the axle area and extending some lattice down each site. For ease and authenticity I will also stick with one axle with an original type jockey wheel set up. Once again thanks for the feedback

Damian

[Damo]

G'day Fellas, Been a tad quiet on the boat as have been hands on helping my boy with his car (again) although I have now chased out all the old cracked epoxy joints and re epoxyed them ready for the primer / filler and varnish. I have however been working on a little sideline project for it that I was going to keep under wraps until later but it turned out so good I have to share .As I am going down the resto line as this being an old race boat i am taking the tact to Hot Rod it in the stye of the day so this being said here is a few pics of my old rudder / cav plate and then the new and improved model. I used a bit of creativety in the design but i'm sure it will looks the goods once polished and on the boat

As a footnote, its only blue tacked into position so dont be to critical about its line up

[Stu]

looks pretty wicked...did you have it water cut or laser cut?.

I cut all my sheet metal stuff out with a flow jet. We also have a cnc brake press so I made my water cooled sump out of aluminium and cut out the developement and bent it up and welded it here. I always am interested to see such bits and pieces and how they are designed and turn out on the boats.

Keep up the good work

Stu

[viteau]

Damien, are you putting cav plate adjusters on? I have a similar style cav plate and I need some downward pressure to keep the nose down. You are doing a great job and there is nothing wrong with a few bright bits.

[Damo]

Hey Chris, I really havent given it any thought, as you can see in the original pic it had them although very crudely fitted. I believe your boat is very similar design to mine so if they have been benificial to the performance of Viteau it stands to reason that I mine would also benifit from them. Are there any rules of thumb for these as I have a design in mind.

Thanks for the feedback mate!

[rayza1]

Hey Damo, i concur with the adjustable cav plate. It must be something to do with the design because mine needed one too, would porpoise something terrible. Much better now. cheers Ray

[viteau]

I was thinking of getting ones from Rolco but I may play with the prop again. I can't remember the exact figures off hand but I had Austral press it to 13deg (12" 4 blade) and at around 4200RPM it starts to play up. The adjustment has reduced rpm by 500 or so at social skiing pace. It comes down to $$$ and lack of use to whether it's worth the experiment. The original cav plate was ply and a 186. Cheers Chris