Classic Australian Wooden Power Boat Association

Hi guys, can anyone tell me what grade of steel a prop shaft should be made from. I have just discovered mine is bent just behind the skeg. Not sure whether to attempt to straighten it or get my machinist son to make me a new one. Any suggestions on which way to go? cheers

We used centreless ground stainless steel

You can buy them with the prop taper, key & thread done in various lengths, and then machine the drive coupling end to length and key.

Dave

Just wondering where the nearest supplier might be to the western suburbs of melbourne, and what i might expect to pay for said prop shaft. My son has the ability to make one but might not be feasable to do so. cheers

Ray

You could start with Kincaid/Rolco in Campbelfield. They are probably not the cheapest around, but they have most stuff. Below is a price list taken from their Price List brochure, which is downloadable from: http://www.kmrolco.com/Price_List.html

The second price includes GST.

PS 48 PROPELLER SHAFT 48" x 1" 149.00 163.90
PS 54 PROPELLER SHAFT 54" x 1" 159.00 174.90
PS 60 PROPELLER SHAFT 60" x 1" 169.00 185.90
PS 66 PROPELLER SHAFT 66" x 1" 179.00 196.90
PS 72 PROPELLER SHAFT 72" x 1" 189.00 207.90
PS 78 PROPELLER SHAFT 78" x 1" 199.00 218.90
PS 84 PROPELLER SHAFT 84" x 1" 209.00 229.90
PS 96 PROPELLER SHAFT 96" x 1" 229.00 251.90
PS 630 630 GRADE STAINLESS STEEL SHAFT 1" DIA POA POA
PS A22 AQUAMETT 22 STEEL SHAFT x 1" POA POA
PS MON MONEL K 500 1” PROPELLER SHAFT POA POA
PS 1⅛ 1⅛” PROPELLER SHAFTS 249.00 273.90
PS 48 ⅞ PROPELLER SHAFT 48” x ⅞” 159.00 174.90
PS 60 ⅞ PROPELLER SHAFT 60” x ⅞” 189.00 207.90
KEY PS KEY & NOTCH SHAFT 25.00 27.50

You still should ask if they can straighten your shaft, which would have to be cheaper than buying a newy.

Greg

Hey i got my shaft from kincaid \ Rolco it was much quicker easier than me fabricating one i just did the key way at the motor end.

cam

Thanks heaps for the help, it's given me something to chew over. At least it's not going to break the bank to buy new. A quick update, the boat is almost ready for it's maiden run, just need to sort out the shaft and come up with a suitable accellerator cable, hook up some gauges and i can do some sea trials. Still need to do the upholstery and final trim but it should go !!( oh and the deck almost forgot that)

hey ray, i wouldnt bother getting a shaft straightened. as you can see a new one isnt that dear and it sure beats braking a shaft. doesnt usually end with a smile when it happens. good to see th boat is moving along well.
brian

I know that this topic is a year old now but I'll put my two cents worth in.

It depends on what the application is and how much horsepower your going to push through the shaft.

When I was researching the propshaft for my new Hydro I rang Menkins in the US and asked them some questions as they make propshafts as well. A 1" aquamet shaft is good for 1100 hp according to them. and thats the go in the US nowadays, aquamet that is.

Then I rang Graeme Howard and asked what he used and recommended, his response was heat treated 630 stainless steel for my hydro would be more than adequate and that was what I eventually used. Argo Marine at Morpeth in NSW custom made it for me. I had to provide the length that I wanted and the prop so that they could perfectly match the shaft taper to the prop. My expectation is that I will be running about 450hp to start and maybe more later on. Bear in mind that hydro's are hard on propshafts and props because of the propriding effect.

For applications with less horsepower and in skiffs/ logboats it could be acceptable to even go down to 316 grade stainless steel.

Spook

In my race boats I always used monel k but customer boats were for skiing and stainless was the way to go