our project

[fatpigeon]

Peter,

I can't give you any advice , well good advice anyway , but I do enjoy reading your posts, wishing you all the best on the next few hurdles.

Stuart

[piquet95971]

Thanks Stuart,

Apart from passing on info, requesting information, keeping it as a sort of diary and doing this as some kind of therapy, I try to make it a bit entertaining. Not sure if I always succeed but I try

Cheers
Peter

[JamesW]

Wouldn't worry about the rudder until you give it a run.

The rudder on my boat is cast brass, and was fairly rough, all was good until I changed prop's then had massive torque on the steering. Bent a section of the trailing edge and fixed the problem, there adjustable with a big hammer . One of my other boats has a stainless fabricated rudder that is rough as guts and it ran for years trouble free.

[Greg]

Pete

I'm with James re the prop. I wouldn't worry too much. Stormy's prop was originally offset and at an angle and it never worried it. Actually, I reckon it was better than after it was centred and straightened in that it stopped the boat rolling at speed.

Keep the posts going Pete. They make for good reading.

Greg

[piquet95971]

Well, the prop shaft is installed. The diameter of the inside of the Skeg was 20 thou out of round. I knew that before I put the bush in, so to remedy the situation I put a 1" speed bore bit in the drill. Put the drill on the max speed and ran it through the bush being as careful as possible to get the right angle. That done I sprayed heaps of silicon spray inside the bush. The prop shaft then slipped in halfway fairly easily. I had noticed that the key way had a slight burr on it so I used it as the final reamer. I put some locking pliers on the shaft and rotated it as if it was a reamer. The key way filled up with shavings, just took enough out to get a firm but not sloppy feel to it. It worked as the shaft now slides in with some resistance and rotates nicely. I have to check out where it comes out in relation to the centreline of the shaft log.

After taking the seals out of the gland housing I found that the seals that I bought for the log gland are the wrong size OD so I'll have to take them back and and get the right size.

I took the prop off the shaft. The propellor is a Cassell R12-13C. A bit pitted but generally not too bad. No chunks out of it but a few burrs on the leading edges. Probably will just get the emery cloth out and get rid of the verdigris from the surface of the blades and maybe touch up the burrs with a smooth file.

Is this prop about fight for a 272 Y block?

The other thing that I've decided to do is to make some 20mm packers to go between the transom and the mounts of the cav. plate and the between the transom and the rudder shaft mounting bracket. I'll then check how much the prop blades won't miss the leading edge of the rudder by to see how much I might have to trim off. I think that I'd rather notch the rudder blade than grind something off the skeg. Just have to see.

I suppose that 10mm clearance would be enough. I might go and have a look at some boats in the local boatyard and see what sort of clearance they have.
I'm really starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.
Cheers

[screwit]

Peter, the skeg on the little skiff has had about 10mm trimmed off read rear bush face. this was a common thing to do in the tuning of the boats performance or ride height in the choppy and smooth water buy having a long and short shaft and moving the prop up the boat, One of the older vic speedboat club members told me his secret for his old boat, apparently it doesn't take much prop shift - 3/4 " to change the ride in a race. This was probably before adjustable cav- plates.
The distance from rudder to end of shaft is normally a clenched fist -100mm , but that is manly to be able to get the prop off without removing the rudder
The further back the prop is the flatter it will plane.
Ross

[JamesW]

Prop to skeg should be a maximum of 1 shaft diameter. Had lots of shaft whip problems until I closed this gap up. Prop to rudder should be just enough to remove/replace prop. Prop pitch/diameter/cup/etc is going to be based on your individual boat and what you want the boat to do, like pull skiers or just cruise. Different styles of the same pitch/diameter will also make big changes to how your boat carries itself. Try to borrow some and give them a run, hopefully you have left a gap as above to get them in and out! Do you know if your shaft is a Morse or SAE taper?

Cheers,
James

[piquet95971]

I figured that I would leave you guys alone to enjoy the wet together but now that you are back I'm going to get the progress reports happening.

I made some thicker spacers for the transom to cavitation plate mounting and that has spaced the cav plate out enough that I may have to take only a curved strip about 10 mm deep and 30 mm along the leading edge of the rudder out to give the tip of the prop blades about 15 mm clearance. The cut out will be right up, at the top of the rudder where it meets the rudder stock. So it shouldn't be a problem there.
I have worked out that I can still get the prop off with the clearance that I have now so with an extra 15mm it should be a breeze.

I have a leak at the plank to keel joint down at the transom. I don't think it is likely to take up when the boat is throroughly sodden so I will squeeze some epoxy in and put a screw there than check it again.

So Skeg is mounted for life and so is the fin. Bilge pump mounted wiring run but not yet connected.
Shaft gland seal all done need to get the rubber for the log to gland and screw it all in place. New s/s worm drive clips ready to go.

So we are nearly ready for a launch and trial float day. Then fix any sinking defects and thenit will be the engine and wiring up.

So I think that we are on track for a Christmas/ new year time frame for basin trials. Looking forward to finding out if it
A. Most importantly floats
B. that it runs
C. Passes basin and sea trials before a summer cruise with you guys (if it happens)

Yarrawonga may be a possibility, we'll just have to see.

[NPeth]

Keep at it Peter! Hope to see you on the water soon, new ribs are going into Grumpy on Sunday so maybe in the water Christmas 2014

[piquet95971]

progress slow at present.
Got a case of the CBFs. Today, I started putting the instruments in place only to find that in the seat position I wont be able to see some of the instruments. F
Not going to change it at all at present. I will just have to put up with the problem. Also found that the back of the ignition switch and the tacho wiring connections are very close to the steering cables. Not sure how I'm going to solve that problem.

Started to run some wires after drilling the deck supports right up under the deck for some conduit through which the wiring will run. I'm planning on putting a Narva 54440 fuseboard in the engine compartment on the fwd bulkhead and connect all the wiring through that.

I seem to spend half the time looking for stuff I've put down or away and then can't locate again. Now I've lost the heatshrink for the wire connections. This sort of thing gives me the irrates.

Tomorrow I may bolt in the dogbox lever and measure to see if the engine is going to fit in the hole that I have in the deck. My guess is that it will fit in the hole but it may be too close to the Fwd bulkhead to suit the drive flange/connection on the shaft.