our project

[piquet95971]

Thanks for that listing Greg
Yes it is a Jabsco
The part No on the rear backing plate is JD 3/4 200.
I have found the kit number to be SK220
I also found a full breakdown on this link as well

http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/files/9 ... ual%29.pdf
It may be worthwhile putting the link in that great big hard drive as it shows a great number of different pumps
cheers
peter

[piquet95971]

After some initial teething issues I now have steering that works the right way.

The way that I had it set up would have made for some interesting boating. Turn the wheel to starboard and the boat goes to port. Mmmmm. Wonder what I did wrong.

Sorted it out now.
This weekend just one I have started putting on some of the shiny bits. The lifting rings and hinges for the engine hatch. I had some rubber bumpers left over from the Torana resto and they were just right for getting the height of the hatch right. I also screwed the floorboards down on a temporary basis. Still can't decide on the colour for the seating. Everybody does red but I want to be that little bit different.

The trailer is now all sorted out and ready to put the boat back on to it. Will sand the deck down during the week ready for another coat of varnish. I may put the boat back on the trailer next weekend.

[piquet95971]

More shiny bits have been added. And it is starting to take shape.
I'm also starting to get the stuf together for the wiring and the instruments.
This crap weather in Melbourne is getting on my goat. I'd like to get some more varnish on the deck and coaming but its either blowing a gale or raining. Neither of which suits the application of the varnish.
Still there are other things to do though.
We lashed out and bought a rock box for the boat, a nice GME unit so if the engine noise is crap we can put on some Hendrix or Billy Joel.
Boat is still not on the trailer.

Transom reinforcement btracket will be bolted in tomorrow and then the skeg cross brace will be bolted in permanantly. Will pay a visit to Tawco later this week and get the Skeg and Shaft log bush and if the bank balance is OK also the Ohaul kit for the waterpump. Tha stuf should keep me amused for at least another week until the weather clears.
Does anyone know where we can get Slotted head Stainless steel wood screws? I have tried all the usual and obscure haunts but to no avail. phillips head just don't look right.
cheers
peter

[JamesW]

Does anyone know where we can get Slotted head Stainless steel wood screws? I have tried all the usual and obscure haunts but to no avail. phillips head just don't look right.

I have quite a collection of SS wood screws and not a slotted head amongst them! Slot head in Bronze is not a problem though and may be available in chromed finish!

[dazza66]

Hi countersunk or round head.
Darren

[piquet95971]

Hi
I'm after 6 off 1"x10g and 8 off 1"x8g. Both in countersunk.

If I can't find some I have brass that I will get chrome plated.. But haven't checked out the costs yet
Peter

[dazza66]

ring geelong fastenings on52789888 they said they had a few different I have round head.
Darren

[piquet95971]

thankyou
I will give them a call tomorrow
peter

[piquet95971]

With all the little things that seem to take for ever ther doesn't seem to show much progress.

But there has been. Today I put the boat back on the trailer there was a bit more involved than getting it off.

The bling bits are starting to be put in place and it's looking much more complete than it has previously. I put a kit through the waterpump and bolted it back in place. Somewhere along the wy the alternator adjustment bracket was broken by the previous owner. It has been boogied up so I'm going to have to find a much better adjusting bracket than there is fitted at present.

After putting the boat back on the trailer I dragged it down the drive way and drowned the inside with two aims.
1. To see how many leaks I actually have. Still to be determined as I don't think I filled it up enough to find out exactly. There were a few which I'm not surprised about but not as many as I thought there would be.
2. To give the boat a good flush out and wash out all the hidden bits of crud that were hidden and hard to get to with the vacuum cleaner.

On the hull today I have bolted the fin in place. This arvo I drilled the holes through the new strong back to mount the skeg only to find that I have found a problem. Probably nothing that can't be overcome with a bit of lateral thinking. By shortening the back of the boat by trimming off about 45mm off the planking I have narrowed the gap between the leading edge of the rudder and the propellor. Not sure how to resolve the issue but will have a think about it.
I have also increased the thickness of the reinforcing inside the hull for the skeg so the bolts that I bought are not long enough. So have to buy longer bolts. BUGGER.

I found out one thing though I am going to have to be accurate when I put the boat back on the trailer or it's likely that the water pickups could end up on the trailer skids.
More news soon

[piquet95971]

Been doing bits and bobs on the boat.
I removed the skeg reinforcing and counterbored the mounting holes as the bolts long enough and there weren't longer countersunk bolts available. Counterboring was not a big deal as the strongback was almost 3/8" thicker than the original. The only thing that I cant do is put the reinforcing plate on the top of the strongback.
I suppose that I could always take it back out again and run the router across the reinforcing and then use the backing plate.

I sometimes think I'm getting a bit too pedantic about things, well that's what my psychiatrist tells me any way!!!!!

Before I put the skeg bush back in the boat I decided to slide the prop and shaft in to see if there was clearance between the leading edge of the rudder and the propellor.
Well there isn't.

I can see Four ways of getting clearance. I suppose I need about 1/2" to 3/4" clearance minimum. This is one measurement I didnt take before I started the rebuild of this thing!

1. I may have to grind a bit out of the leading edge of the rudder up near the stock to give it the clearance.
2. Grind some off the aft end of the skeg to give it the clearance. This would mean that the skeg bush is shorter than original. Can't see that that would be too much
of a problem. I may have to shorten the shaft by a similar amount.
3. Make thicker mounts to place under the cav plate mounts and top bracket for the rudder shaft through the transom. Thereby moving the whole assembly further off
the back side of the transom.
or a combination of 1, 2 and 3.

Advice requested

I also found that the rudder blade is not inline with the centreline of the shaft. It's actually 6 mm off centreline to the port side. I have seen that boats like some of the skiffs, more particularly the hydroplanes have the rudder offset. Will the blade being offset make any appreciable difference or do I just ignore it and get on with the rest of the job.
I'm inclined to think that it is not a really great problem.

Next week I'm planning on getting the trailer registered, so that I can taker the family have a quiet launching and do a "swamp" test, sinkex or a float test. Not exactly sure which it will be, but I have a big bilge pump and a spare battery in case.
I will take the Gopro. So watch out for a failed launching on Youtube!!! I can join the many that are already there.

This weekend I will put the new seals in the shaft log gland and then install it in the boat.
If I get a chance I may drop the prop off up to the Prop Shop in Bayswater sometime next week and get them to clean it up, straighten it if necessary and remove the burr off the leading edge. I dont think it has had anything done to it since new. Well, it doesn't look like it any way.